[at-l] [TR] Questions about sill replacement on a TR3
Kent Gardam
kent_gardam at yahoo.com
Thu Nov 30 07:29:04 CST 2006
And to make the following post hiking relevant: I once owned a Triumph TR4A. That car taught me more about automotive repair than any other I have ever owned because I don't think I ever drove it more than 75 miles without something breaking! Thus, I hiked a lot while I owned it.
But it was fun to tool around in a car with the top down and a tonneau cover snapped up on the passenger side.
Kent Gardam
Doug Mathews <mathews at uga.edu> wrote:
Guys and gals,
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing! When I was in the auto
collision curriculum at our VoTech school, we had a 3m rep come and
talk about panel adhesives, and if this ol brain remembers, I posted
something about that to the list. Panel adhesives are used and
preferred today by a lot of manufactures and insurance companies as
the body coatings are not removed by welding and rust is
prevented. From what I remember, these adhesives can be used to
attach body panels where there is no chance of "peeling" in the event
of a collision. Those areas that may be subjected to "peeling" are
still supposed to be welded as they were at the time of
manufacture. As a note to the strength of these adhesives, The Panoz
vehicles (manufactured just north of me) have and aluminium box
frame that is assembled with adhesive, although they do run 1 bolt
/nut through each joint point as a safety/fail soft point. We were
told that these adhesives were used on aircraft and had been for
years. So I assume its strong and able to take extreme temperature swings.
Would I use it to attach body parts on a TR, especially the older
ones? Not on those parts that I felt were helping with structural rigidity.
Here is a link to a 3M page that can get you started on your own research.
http://tinyurl.com/yckv62
Doug
At 10:01 AM 11/29/2006, you wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>From: dorpaul at negia.net
>
> ....I am not a great welder, so today when I was at Lowes (Home Depot) I
>looked at their Structural Adhesives. I am wondering that since rails,
>crossmembers, outriggers and sills are 'under' my floorpan, I am wondering if
>my POWDERCOATED FLOORPANS AND SILLS, could be attached in certain places, with
>these adhesives?
>This might mean fewer places were I would need to grind (or sandblast) the
>powdercoating. Of course, any area requiring integrity would be mig welded.
>
>==AM==
>I am so NOT a structural engineer (nor any other kind of engineer),
>hence my possibly naive question here. "Pound for pound" (or
>whatever SAT-style analogy you care to use here), are these
>adhesives as strong as an equivalent spot weld or plug weld or other
>kind of weld? Or (maybe the same question, but asked differently),
>is there any difference in design of two pieces to be joined via a
>structural adhesive rather than by conventional "mechanical" (weld) joining?
>
>I realize that Standard-Triumph and Mulliners, etc., probably did
>not have such structural adhesives when that car was first designed,
>engineered and tooled.
>
>Also, can one really get an appropriate automotive structural
>adhesive at Lowes or Home Depot?
>
>I'm really NOT trying to be flippant here; I really AM curious about
>this as I've heard much talk about structural adhesives in
>automotive applications of late, and I really wonder if they are
>applicable to body designs dating back 20-50 years.
>
>Thanks in advance to anyone with authoritative information!
>
>--Andy Mace
>
>*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
>*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
>Triumph Herald engine with wings.
>-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
>Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and
>Triumph Herald Database at its new URL:
>
>________________________________________________________________________
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