[at-l] Centennial Trail - Part 1

[Mark Hudson]

 Centennial Trail, South Dakota


 8/18/07: Elk Mountain Campground near Wind Cave SD -

Flew into Rapid City last night, then to Sioux Falls, then back to Rapid
City. That is, we ALMOST flew into Rapid City the first time, I think the
wheels of the plane were about to hit the runway when the pilot aborted the
landing due to a thunderstorm... Then we had to fly to Sioux Falls to
refuel, it's just as well that it went quickly there because the storm was
closing in on S.F. when we took off. So the two and a half hour flight
turned into a four hour flight (from Chicago), and I finally arrived at the
motel at 1 am local time (3 am east coast time).

Awoke early to gray skies and rain – not in the weather report, but by the
time I finished breakfast and walked to the hardware store for alcohol it
was already clearing up.

Kevin arrived early to shuttle me down to Wind Cave, Very nice guy, we had a
good chat along the way. Also along the way was evidence of flash flooding
along Rt 79, debris caught up in the barb wire fences, and a couple of
places where it looked like they had to plow the road. Some place along the
way had 4 1/2" of rain out of the thunderstorm, and a place called Piedmont
had baseball sized hail.

Kevin dropped me off at the campground, where I found a nice ridge site to
pitch. Then I walked the mile or so back to Wind Cave to do the tourist
thing. Wind Cave is a "dry" cave, and therefore much different from what we
have back east. No stalactites or stalagmites, but some interesting crystal
formations. And rather than a linear system it's 125 miles of cave under one
square mile of land – more like a sponge.

Well, early tomorrow I cross the road to the Centennial trail head and
officially start the hike!



 8/19: French Creek, just beyond horse camp -

What an eventful day! Yesterday's journal entry kind of petered out because
I was beat. Try to take a nap when you really need one and it never works.
Anyways, after sacking out early I awoke once to hear rain pattering on the
tent, and a second time to hear coyotes howling,

Clouded in when I left camp at 6:45 this morning, with my too heavy pack and
too much water. Saw turkey and deer on my road walk over to the trail head,
and it even misted a bit. Finally realized while I was signing the permit
for the first section that today is the fifteenth anniversary of the day I
finished the A.T. on Katahdin. I thought that was a good way to start a new
trail!

The trail started with a beautiful walk up Beaver Creek Canyon, where I saw
more turkey and a rabbit gave me a good scare. The climb out of the canyon
just proved how much too heavy my pack is, and also that they don't use
switchbacks. By now I had moved more or less into the woods, interspersed
with meadows, or sections of prairie anyway. Through one of the larger
sections I was escorted by the barking of prairie dogs. Rounding a corner I
found a large brown rock swishing its tail – the first bison of the trip. By
now the sun had come out and it was growing quite warm, so of course the
trail disappeared on me, just a matter of an obscure turn in the trail at
the same point where a game trail was more obvious. Took me a little while
to work it out, but along the way I saw two more bison and another rabbit.
Onward to the first road crossing, where I found plenty of water, and a
stuck gate that I had to climb over – a very tall gate at that. First break
in the shade, then off on a long hot hike to 4 Mile Draw, took lunch along
the way, and almost a nap. Also ran into two nice bucks and some does with
fawns. Other than the deer that section was pretty non-desript. 4 Mile Draw
brought the first big surprise of the trip, because the section of trail
ahead was closed due to salvage logging from a fire. To top it off the
posted map showing the re-route was washed out. Pulling my map out left me
with a detour to SD-87 and a cut back to the CEN on trail #3, it worked
perfectly – other than the road walk was hotter than hell.

Hot ridge walk down to Bachelor Road, where a sign said the French Creek
trail head was two miles. Damn that was a long two miles! I was kind of
hoping that the horse camp was empty on a Sunday night and that I could
sneak a spot, but it's a very commercial operation, and quite large and
full.

I though I could make French Creek (wilderness) camp, but maybe a half mile
from the horse camp I came to the first ford and just didn't have the energy
to deal with it. Climbed a small hill and found a somewhat secluded campsite
– a whole bunch of horseback riders just went through and I don't think
anyone saw me. Did a cleanup swim in the creek – I don't suppose it's really
cold, but after being in the heat all day it was a bit of a shock at first.

Dinner next, then a Tylenol PM night for my poor body. I'd hate to actually
figure out todays miles, with the road walking I figure it's way too close
to twenty. I haven't looked at tomorrow yet, but it damn well better be
shorter!

Couple of other notes; while VERY warm and a bit sticky today there was
usually a nice breeze, and sometimes a cloud for shade. Then with the big
storms before I got here there are some puddles in the backcountry, most of
them I'm glad I don't need but at least they're there.

Found my spoon broken in my cook kit at Elk Mt, good thing I carry a small
spare spoon. Then today I found my old Nalgene Cantene has a pinhole leak,
have to see if I can fix that. 5:30 now, think it's time to fill my stomach,
then read a bit before crashing.

Oh yeah – been following the same set of boot tracks all day. With the
storms the tracks are either from today or yesterday, and I think they're
from today. I was hoping to catch their maker...



 8/20: Black Elk Wilderness, north of Iron Creek trail head -

Among yesterday's wildlife I think I lost in the heat haze I was in that
some of the "deer" on the road walk reroute were elk. Also spotted some fox
tracks. Then last night after dinner I kept hearing snorting. First I
thought it was more horses passing by, but when I kept hearing it I crawled
out of the tent to find it was four deer who didn't like my location.

Just as I was about to fall asleep last night there was a flash of lightning
and a peal of thunder. I had to crawl out to set up the awning, then ended
up being kept awake as the storm raged. I don't know what time it ended, but
after it did I slept like a log.

Packed a wet camp and headed down to the ford about 7:15, put my socks and
boots on and found another ford a quarter mile later. That one I managed to
rock hop even though most of the rocks were under water. The morning started
off with blue skies, but some high cloud cover quickly moved in saving me
from the heat. The downer was all the humidity left over from last nights
rain.

The walk along French Creek was beautiful, but the climb out of the drainage
was a death march. After that it was a pretty non-descript day compared to
yesterday. After Badger Hole I finally met some other backpackers, Mark and
Karen, whose tracks are the ones I think I've been following.

They were going quite slow, so after a short chat I passed on, heading for
the Iron Creek trail head. Eventually my stomach insisted that I stop for
lunch, even though I knew I was close to the trail head. Anyways, after a
nice lunch in a pretty spot I literally walked around the corner and found
the road... but not the trail head! - I missed a turn about a quarter mile
back. Once I recovered my bearings, guess who I meet on the trail again?
Yup, the same couple...

Short jaunt to the trail head, longer jaunt over to the Iron Creek Horse
Camp ($22 a night, horse campers only) where I tanked up out of the horse
trough, and feeling fairly tired and not wanting another death march day I
headed out for the first campsite I could find. Well, I didn't take the
first, but the second, in some trees up on a knob, enough sun to dry things
out, and water not far away if I need more. Ok, the campsite is a little
lumpy and tilted, whatever...

Wildlife; well, after yesterday's spectacle today was awfully quiet,
squirrels, chipmunks, a rabbit, a frog, and some grouse clucking. Tomorrow
takes me into Mt Rushmore, and then where?