[at-l] Handy(Wo)Man Question Redux

[Doug Mathews]

Grey-Owl has the plan sounds like ti to me.
Mainframe

grey.owl at comcast.net wrote:
> Don't use a power washer on old wood.  You could end up with a lot of 
> tooth picks.  I suggest a gentle spraying (from a spray bottle) of 
> dilute bleach.  Let it dry and then treat the wood with  tung oil.  
> Tung oil is an anti-microbial especially effective against fungi.  You 
> would not need to add anything else to the wood though you could wax 
> the gate.  Instead I suggest that you clean the gate periodically with
> 1 part water
> 1 part white vinegar
> 1 part turpentine
> 1 part linseed oil
> I use this mixture to clean all of my wooden furniture.  Once a year 
> you need to treat the wood with another coat of tung oil.  The gate 
> would maintain its rustic look for many years.
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jan Lite" <liteshoe at gmail.com>
> To: "Doug Mathews" <mathews at uga.edu>, "at-l" <at-l at backcountry.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 11:39:40 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: Re: [at-l] Handy(Wo)Man Question Redux
>
> Can we revisit this question, oh handy-types?
>
> 1). I have tung oil - would that work as a first treatment?
>
> 2). Then either a UV-resistant marine varnish or exterior polyurethane?
>
> 3) Would a powerful leaf-blower do the trick of cleaning out the 
> wood-destroying organisms, or do we need water pressure, for some reason?
>
> Thanks for your input!
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 8:36 PM, Doug Mathews <mathews at uga.edu 
> <mailto:mathews at uga.edu>> wrote:
>
>     Anyone out there ever heard of or used "tung oil"?
>     My great grandfather used it on his farm implements he left
>     outside in the winter to keep them from rusting and its a good
>     preservative (natural) for wood.
>
>     Here is a link to a wikipedia article.
>     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil
>
>     It comes from China and it also grows along a belt in the
>     southeast. We used to play with the tung nut when I lived in south
>     Georgia as a kid and boy was it sticky.
>     I think the old "Homer Fornsby" products had tong oil products. I
>     seem to remember that over time exposure to air would make the
>     contents of a bottle congeal and I always squeezed the bottle to
>     remove the air before I put the cap on. Never had a problem or so
>     I remembers.
>
>     Just a good alternative if you want a natural substance.
>
>     Mainframe
>
>     Jan Lite wrote:
>
>         So, all you helpful types,
>
>         Thanks! Keep the comments coming.
>
>         1) Exterior grade clear polyurethane vs. "spar" varnish...
>         why? which?
>         pros, cons, considerations... ???
>         Expected life?
>
>         2)No epoxy to strengthen the aging fibers?
>
>         3) Is washing first a necessity? Some of that crevice dirt is
>         "historic"
>
>         I know it will change the appearance some whatever I do.
>
>
>
>
>         On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 1:15 PM, Jan Lite <liteshoe at gmail.com
>         <mailto:liteshoe at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>             Hey all you handy, well-informed builder-types....
>
>             If one wanted to preserve, say, a beat-up old,
>             horse-chewed wooden gate, formerly a resident of a barn
>             interior and a little on the creaky side,
>             and IF that formerly interior gate needed to now hang
>             outside in the wind and rain, how would you prep it for
>             such a life?
>
>             Epoxy? It could stand a little more "structure."
>             Finish with a mairne varnish?
>             Or...
>             ????
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> "The Ordinary Adventurer"
> A new backpacking adventure book
> http://www.FunFreedom.com
>
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