[at-l] Long Trail Journal Part 2

[Mark Hudson]

8:29: Bamfort Ridge Shelter - Clouded over note long after we hit camp
yesterday, then started raining just after we turned in. The rain on the
metal roof had me wishing for earplugs, and it lasted all night. Didn't get
out of camp until about 7:40 this morning, but the rain quit just before we
started the long trudge up to the LT. The wind was really whipping this
morning, enough to turn the warm and damp into cold and damp when you got
the brunt of it on the ridgelines. Fairly quick run to Duck Brook, where I
was lucky/smart enough to turn it into a lunch break. From there out to the
road – same as the rest of the morning, not as downhill as they lead you to
believe, lots of ups in between the downs. No garbage can at the P.O., new
bridge at the river. Long, fast road walk... too fast. Hit the wrong
trailhead and wandered up the Catamount Ski Trail wondering where the blazes
were. Finally got THAT sorted out and headed for the Bamfort Ridge
Trailhead. Did I mention that the rain restarted at the beginning of the
road walk? Nice walk in from the right trailhead, and then some rugged
climbing. Counting steps... made the junction to the shelter trail at 3:30.
Long 0.2 off the LT to find one young woman in residence. She started the LT
in June and got rained off, and might get off in Jonesville now...
Let's see... met a brother and sister northbound, a lone guy northbound at
Duck Brook that said tomorrow would be “better” and then we'd have a week of
nice weather. Met a guy with his dog on the road walk that said he'd had to
crawl over Camels Hump this morning... and the gal here. Quiet day.

8/30: Cowles Cove – Not my best day on the trail, let's just say my “pride”
took a beating.
Some bouncing up and down and funky footing on Bamfort Ridge after leaving
camp at 7. The climb up Camels Hump was actually pretty tame, just long...
The sun was shining on the ridge but Camels Hump was in the cloud. Met two
dayhikers just before the summit, and another almost at the top. Crossed the
open rock with winds buffeting me around and zip for views. Needless to say
I didn't stay...
Coming down Camels Hump was a real slow job, big, sloped, slick rocks... met
more dayhikers, probably 12 or 13 between Camels Hump and Montclair Glen,
and the summit steward/caretaker who warned me to be careful of the slick
rocks farther down. About a quarter mile later I found myself sledding down
a large slab on my ass. Seriously scared myself since you never know how a
crash like that is going to end. This one finished with a great scrape on my
left elbow and some serious bruises and welts on my ass – but no blood on my
shorts. Stopped at Montclair Glen Shelter for late morning break and turned
it into early lunch.
More climbing after lunch, more slow going. Very, very slow going, being
awfully paranoid about the slick stuff. Met another 15 or so dayhikers on
Burnt Mt after having taken a break at the first view. The woods had been
almost too quiet all day, the occasional whisper of a breeze or burble of
water, but on Burnt Mt you could hear... logging? Lots of plate steel
clanging around. Next stop in the winding around was Ladder Ravine, still
tricky moves off the top of the ladder. Made it to Cowles Cove after 3pm and
decided to call it a day. One other hiker in, turns out to be Dan of the
“Spice Twins” (ALDHA). Then a young couple pulled in, then Dave... then Hobo
finally came along about 6:30, after taking a nap at Montclair Glen. He
decided to go on to Birch Glen – I may see him there in the morning. So this
shelter is pretty full... time to wind down and relax.

8/31: Appalachian Gap – Hyde Away Inn – More rain last night equals more
slick rocks & roots today.  Left Dan with my powdered milk this morning, he
gave me his Icy-Hot for my butt (turns out I also banged my tailbone in
yesterdays crash). Left camp at 7am, more ups and downs before the trail
eased up for the cruise into Birch Glen. Met two women hiking north about
halfway between the shelters, then found Hobo just stirring as I hit Birch
Glen. Cowles Cove had been in a cloud, I dropped out of it on the way to
Birch Glen but climbed back into it leaving there. Didn't take too long for
the roller coaster to start – mostly up... no view from Molly Stark's
Balcony... one view east, just before the drop to the road. And of course
more slipping and sliding along the way.
Hit the road around 10am. Very little traffic so I started walking. Vehicle
#6, a pickup with a kayak on the rack stopped for me, young guy, really
nice.
10:30am in the nice hot shower at the Hyde Away, nice long soak. Amazingly
the washcloth didn't come off black, but I feel a lot cleaner :  )
Margret, who runs the place, is very nice, definitely makes you feel at
home. Half a cantaloupe and two yogurts for a welcome, won't need much more
for lunch.
Got my mail drop, unloaded it into my food bags, box will now be the new
“hiker box” with my leftovers.
Bar opens at 4pm, dining room at 5:30. Need to call home too..
Mixed ramblings while waiting for the bar/dinner:
When I arrived Margret said laundry was $5, more than worth it to get my
hiking clothes clean. I was really ashamed of my socks, I almost couldn't
bear to put them on this morning, but after last nights rain I couldn't see
sacrificing a clean pair. But Margret's used to hikers, collects the laundry
in a plastic bag, and probably wears a gas mask <g>. She says her five year
old daughter asks “Mommy, is he a hiker?” Yes.. “Is he a stinky hiker?” Not
anymore, he's had a shower...
So, besides the bruises on my butt and the tweak in my tailbone, not to
mention the skinned elbows, both knees have been complaining about the
beating they've taken on the downhills, and I picked up a nice bruise on the
inside of my right ankle, right on that bone that sticks out – and it gets
very annoying at times. The hot shower also pin-pointed all the usual
scrapes and dings on my shins, but what must be a real miracle – I haven't
had a single blister yet!

9/1: Cooley Glen Shelter – What a great day to be alive! The last two days
have done a lot of good things for my karma <g>.
Took a nap yesterday afternoon, then finished Joshua Slocum's 'Sailing Alone
Around The World' – quite the adventure.
Wandered over to the bar at 4:30, great beers on tap (started with Magic
Hat), Grateful Dead on the stereo, and the bartender is an AT '95
thru-hiker. Cool! Somebody to talk to!
Veggie lasagna for dinner, a couple more beers, and when I asked the
bartender what was for dessert he never made it past “Key Lime Pie” <g>, I
wanted to take a picture of it!
This morning started with a veggie omelet, coffee, and cranberry/orange
juice. Spencer the handyman gave me a ride back up to the Gap, and I started
south about 8am. Had decided that I was done seeing college orientation
groups, so of course I run into a big group from Tufts. Then three
northbounders along the ridge.
Ahh, the RIDGE!! 44 degrees and sunny down at the Inn. Left the Gap with my
jacket on, shed it ten minutes later, and had a dripping sweat going ten
minutes after that – the climb was stiff! And – the trail was marked as a
snowshoe route! (I hope they ride the Mad River lift up and snowshoe down).
Stopped at Starks Nest for the first stunning view of the morning – it
turned out to be “picture day”. Trail was a little hard on the feet with
busted rock, but fast going – except for stops to enjoy the views. Stopped
for lunch just before Mt Lincoln, then headed over to Mt Abraham hoping to
hang out on my favorite LT peak. Didn't last long – cold breeze and too many
people for me. More pics, then followed a dad and his two pre-teen daughters
down the trail. They slowed me a little, but that helped save my knees, and
I had an interesting chat with dad. And there were still hikers heading up,
how do they all get Tuesday off?
At Battell Shelter I caught Hobo with his forester friend Richard who's out
with him for a week. Chatted a little but didn't hang long... they did spend
the night at Starks Nest with the Tuft's crew.
>From the shelter to the road was more sidehill than down,  or so it seemed.
I figured from the road to Cooley Glen was just going to be a mileage
grind... the climb to sunset ridge didn't seem all that bad... Met one
couple and a woman out with her dog, a “crowd” I can more easily deal with
on the trail. The view was awesome, the sun warm, and if I had water I would
have camped. Had to leave after twenty minutes or so, but it turned out that
the run to Mt Grant was on a ridge, easy hiking (mostly up) and some nice
views. Grant itself was nothing very special, and the drop to here was
fairly wet. Arrived about 5:10 and had to go scout water, it's a ways away.
Dinner done, heading for 7pm, wondering if Hobo and his friend are going to
make it.
Yes, today was a long day... but being sunny, and cool, and the trail not
awfully difficult, my body was just happy moving <g>. Good day!
P.S. - From Sunset Ledge to Cooley Glen I had the Moody Blues 'Eyes of a
Child' stuck in my head. Must be something about it because the same tune
accompanied me up Katahdin in '92 <g>.
Also got my boots dried out in the sun while at the Inn. Dry, they're not so
bad, wet they smell like I've been slopping pig pens!

9/2: Sucker Brook – Went out hunting firewood last night, lots of stuff but
you'd need a saw or ax. On the way back I saw a snowshoe hare :  )
Hobo and Richard pulled in after seven. I was just about asleep before they
were done settling in. Didn't get as cold as I thought it would last night.
Sunshine and blue skies this morning. Left camp at 6:45 with a stiff climb
for a warm up. Fairly slow going to Emily Proctor, then picked up the pace.
Met one northbounder in a hurry just past Skyline, then three more when I
stopped for lunch #1 at Boyce. One from Alabama, two from California. Nice
chat. Also found a metal grapefruit spoon at Boyce, a little heavy but
better than what I've been using.
Long run from Boyce to the road at Middlebury, generally very easy. Met two
older gents out on a section, on their way from Sucker Brook. Hit the road
with my heart set on a second lunch and a swim at Lake Pleaid, and found
some moms with kids getting ready to leave the parking lot. Turned out to be
a very easy walk up to the lake, and just before arriving I ran into a young
woman who presented me with a supply of chocolate coated coffee beans, my
mornings should be looking up for a while!
Got the the lake far enough ahead of the kids that I was able to take a
quick clean-up swim without getting my hiking shorts wet :  ) , then enjoyed
a second lunch sitting in the sun. The kids were pretty young and having a
good time. One of the moms went in for a swim and was looking nice and trim
<g> - same one said she would like to do the LT one day, and I warned her
about catching the AT bug.
Back out into the sunshine and quickly ran into five more northbounders, two
guys finishing the north half of the LT after having done the south half on
the AT, a Vermont couple doing the LT as a test for the AT – gave me good
info on a new hostel in Manchester – while chatting with them the last NoBo
came along. Sucker Brook must have been full last night. The last mountain
on the way here would NOT quit... king of the false peaks. Then on the way
down I started hitting skeeters, literally. First order of business on
hitting camp was starting a smudge fire to keep the bugs at bay. Fetched
water, did a quick, cold rinse down at the stream, and had dinner. Still
waiting to hit a shelter with a good book for claiming. Short twelve mile
day to David Logan Sh, unless I get really stupid and do 20 some miles to
Ralston's Rest. Hoping that the Inn at Long Trail has room for me on Friday
night. Meanwhile it's 6pm and I'm the only one here. Wouldn't mind company,
but right now I'm enjoying the quiet.
My lungs are full of the spruce scented Vermont air, my eyes filled with the
views of the trail (big and small), my ears are catching the burbling of
Sucker Brook, a grouse clucking down the hill, and the whisper of a breeze
in the trees. I'll be spending the night, sleeping on a wood floor beneath a
slanted lean-to roof. The simpler life gets the happier I am. Karma...
karma...

9/3: David Logan Shelter -
    “Instant karma's goann get you,
    gonna knock you right off your feet”
John Lennon

Rachael and James pulled in around 7 last night, young couple hiking to
Canada. James did half the AT (Me-Va) last year before getting bored and
quitting. Rachael seemed happy with the length of the LT. Some good chatting
before we turned in. Helped Rachael out with some Tylenol PM after she said
she was tired of not sleeping.
Sucker Brook burbled in the background all night. I was the first one up
when nature called me. Fired Rachael up with some chocolate coated coffee
beans (James was still asleep), and got off to a late, slow start knowing I
had an easy 12 mile day here. Almost 8am when I left camp. Apparently I
entered the “mosquito zone” when I crossed Mt Worth yesterday – I needed to
put bug dope on my face and ears last night, and was only on the trail about
twenty minutes when I needed more this morning. Buggy, sunny, and warm. The
climb to the ridge wasn't too bad, but it was a lot like Wildcat in NH,
endless bumps, trail goes over each and every one, no views. Finally started
descending to Brandon Gap, almost blew past the side trail to Great Cliff ,
had to remind myself that it was a short, easy day and walked over for a
nice break in the sun – good views. Met one dayhiker on her way up to the
cliff as I descended to the road, only person I saw all morning. Easy run
over to Sunrise Sh for “lunch”, but the mosquito patrol cut that short.
Very easy going on old logging railroad grade from the road to Wetmore Gap
(about a mile from here, isn't it the last mile that's always the hardest?)
Met an older couple that did the fourteen miles to David Logan yesterday,
they were only going to Sunrise today.
Got to the shelter before 2:30, not tempted to push a twenty mile day by
going on to the next one. Rinsed the sweat off with an Outward Bound shower
at the cold little creek. Snacked, set stuff out in the sun to air, kind of
hoping a moose will wander by. Plenty of mosquitoes here but haven't
resorted to a smudge fire yet. The resident chipmunk just ambled through
checking things out – register says the mice will be out later.
Oh yeah – found a plastic spoon at Sunrise, if it works it will replace the
metal spoon I found.
No books here either... if no company it will be an early bed time. I want
to get an early start tomorrow anyway, see if I can score a room at the Inn
at Long Trail. If not – camp across the street? Take the bus to the hostel
in Rutland? Try a motel? Dunno... we'll see.
Ah yes, a few days ago I finally noticed the complete lack of any evidence
of porcupines... Hobo's friend Richard is a forester – he said the return of
the fisher has knocked the population off.
And the beard has officially reached the “itchy” stage.
Whole bunch of company rolled in about 4pm, three northbounders that have
done the AT and started at Rt 4, including two golden retrievers. There's
supposed to be two more hikers on the way too.

9/4: Inn at the Long Trail – No karma today, just a rush to get to the in to
see if I could score a room for tonight.
Left camp at 6:45, pretty easy going, at least on the flats. Just before
Ralston's Rest I met a northbounder, but he only cleared about a mile of
webs for me :  ( .  Hit Ralston's Rest just before 10am for a VERY short
break. Between RR and Tucker Johnson I had the joy of hiking through a new
logging area, sucking diesel fumes, loud noise... didn't make me feel bad
for making this a mileage day. Was going to take a longer break at TJ
shelter, then realized that I was moving fast enough to make lunchtime at
the Inn. More mud, roots, and rock gardens. Met a Nobo AT hiker at Maine
Junction and took his picture for him. Would have chatted longer but I was
falling into the Inn's gravity well at that point.
Hit the parking lot minutes after noon, and scored a room! <g>. Showered,
then had two Half & Halfs and a turkey rueben for lunch (yum!). Laundry
running now. When that's done need to go and sort the mail drop and nap,
will need the energy for later – it's live music night. The band is Trinity,
should be good. Need to call home too.

9/5: Swansong (Secret) Shelter – (approximately 1 mile south of Gov Clement
Sh.) - Met an AT hiker at the Inn yesterday afternoon; 'Sideshow' stopped
for a bite to eat and then pushed on for big miles. As we were chatting
outside who shows up but Mad Hatter and his wife, with visiting friends from
Ct... “Where are you on the trail?” - Right where I'm sitting! <g>
Live music last night was traditional Irish, pretty good but I only made it
to 9pm – then couldn't sleep well for some reason.
Yummy blueberry pancakes for breakfast. Headed out at 8am under the now
usual blue skies and sunshine. Backtracked 1.4 miles north to pick up the
AT/LT reroute. Turned out to be pretty good trail, too bad it only exists
because of politics. The big disappointment was how far up the valley south
of the road you could still hear the traffic.
I carried too much resupply out of the Inn figuring there had to be somebody
I could pawn it off on. First I met two AT hikers, but they resupplied in
Rutland. Then I met two LT hikers, but they were only going to Middlebury.
Then... I met Pegasus – an older Asian woman (Nobo AT) who had to take a
zero at Cooper Lodge yesterday – sounded like a stomach bug. So she scored a
bunch of almonds and half a package of Fig Newtons – some trail magic is
just meant to be.
Leap-frogged over to Cooper Lodge with two young dayhikers. Cooper was my
lunch stop, and another dayhiker was on his way down from the peak, so we
had some good trail chat while we ate. (Note about the lodge, REALLY wanted
to meet the gal that lost her jog bra there!) Finally found a good book to
pick up in a shelter; 'Heart of the Sea' about the whaleship Essex,
unfortunately I've already read it.
Left the shelter for an easy run over to the Shrewsbury Peak Trail. The mile
south of there on the AT/LT has not improved in 20 years – it's like they
flagged a route through the woods and just let the trail happen – rocks,
roots, and mud, very awkward. Met two young couples backpacking north at the
end of the rough section, I told them I was heading for Gov Clement and they
told me about Secret Shelter. I think my trail magic got paid back! Met one
older dayhiking couple on my way to Gov Clement. Arrived to find it very
neat and clean – no party evidence despite the rap, but now the bunks are
gone, so the deep stone shelter resembles a cave even more than it did
before.
On to Secret Shelter – the directions the kids gave me were perfect, just a
bit farther off the trail than I expected. It's a private shelter owned by a
couple that welcomes hikers, it's SWEET! A few mosquitoes in Eden, but one
of the nicest shelters on the trail. Oh yeah, after passing GC I passed four
young guys with HUGE packs heading up. Don't know if they're the party type,
but they can have GC, I like it here!
While at the Inn one of the coffee table books I was leafing through was
Linda McCartney's pics of the '60s – so the song I had stuck in my head all
afternoon was 'Let It Be' – maybe my karma is getting better <g>
(one of the nicest privies on the trail here too!)
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