[at-l] Long Trail Journal Part 3

[Mark Hudson]

9/6: Greenwall Shelter – Another zen day of hiking... very cool but sunny
and blue today. Left Secret Sh at 7:20. Met the Winell family on the way to
Claredon Sh; mom, dad, and two pre-teen kids... don't see enough families on
the trail. While chatting with them a father passed by with his young son,
then a trail runner.
Made my way to the shelter but didn't stop, I was hoping for a long break
and a swim at Claredon Gorge. Traversed my way over then dropped down a
stone stepped rock cleft. A few cars in the parking lot at the road, but
lots of people car camping across the suspension bridge. Did run into a
northbound LT hiker and chatted with her about the Inn. Started my way up
the hill and passed a hiker in a rush, then ran into Bounce and Stein and
their dog Monster. Bounce said that I had a day of beautiful woods walking
in front of me.
Farther along I ran into two AT hikers running for Rutland to replace a
broken pack, a dayhiker doing the LT by sections, some weekenders, and an AT
section hiker here. Enough people but not crazy considering it's Labor Day
weekend.
Now back to Bounce and the days hiking... much too beautiful to be called
“green tunnel”. The start of the days walk had me ambling alongside a brook,
climbing a low ridge, and eventually walking dow the low ridge with a large
stream on each side of me – one of my favorite parts of the LT, and I had
forgotten about it.
That was followed by the winding climb up Beacon Hill, with some
blackberries to eat in the sun, descending to cross dirt lanes and skirting
farm fields. The classic suspension bridge crossing at Clarendon, lunch
break at Airport View. Wandering through spruce groves and along old stone
walls, and finally climbing alongside a cascading stream to reach here. I
don't know if “zen” is the right word for todays hike. The trail has eased
into gentler terrain, the ease of movement has brought a joy to the motion
of hiking – tai chi hiking? Very pleasant whatever you call it.
Grump is in here for the night, section hiking the AT Vt/NH after doing half
the trail a few years ago. Femur passed through on a AT Sobo trip. And an
older woman pulled in to tent for the night.

9/7: Peru Peak Shelter – Heard Grump poking around a little last night, but
slept pretty well. Bird and Freebird (AT Nobo) showed up late, did dinner,
and tented, but we swapped stories for a bit...
Woke up to find it much warmer than I expected – because it had clouded over
during the evening. Left camp at 7am heading for the “cruise” to Little Rock
Pond, much more rolling, roots, rocks, and mud than I remember, glad I
didn't do it yesterday. The water at LRP was warmer than I expected, and I
went in for a clean-up swim. Hoping I haven't killed the zen for the rest of
the trip because I cut the ball of my left foot on a sharp rock. REALLY bad
place for a cut because it won't close while you're hiking. Also made the
rest of the days hiking painful... I did make a pretty good pace for the
rest of the day – I was afraid if I stopped too long I wouldn't be able to
go again.
Fast going down to the LRP trailhead, met a college orientation crew from
Willliam at Big Branch. Lots of weekenders too. Had “lunch” at the new Lost
Pond Shelter, then hobbled the rest of the way to Baker Peak – the height of
the clouds matched the top of the peak, and the only “views” were down into
the valley. More very careful and tender hiking to Griffith Lake, and
arrived here much sooner than I expected (before 2pm I think) since I hadn't
stopped much. Two AT thru-hikers here for lunch, short on first aid supplies
but I got enough Tylenol to get me to Manchester. Washed and rewrapped the
foot, keeping it elevated now and trying to figure out how to do that all
night. Going to see how tomorrow goes – there is a medical center in
Manchester – I don't think the cut is big enough to need stitches (about
3/8” long from what I can tell, hard to see) but if it keeps bleeding I'll
have to do something. Since I also covered this section on my AT hike I've
actually completed my 3td end to end, but it would suck to have to stop now.
Very quiet in the woods all day, scared one grouse and found another toad.
Not quite a “calm before the storm day”, I think it would have been another
zen day if not for the limping.
Might have napped a little, now waiting for dinnertime – but the sun is
actually trying to break out – sky has gone mostly blue, as I saw on my
painful hobble for water. REALLY trying to keep pressure and stress off the
cut. As for the blue skies I have mixed emotions... bet the view off Baker
Peak is really sweet right now <sigh>, also betting on cold tonight. It was
pretty cool when I arrived... been writing with my feet propped up and my
sleeping bag draped over me. Then again maybe the cold will damp the
skeeters down.
Company for the night – young couple came in, got water, and headed north.
Princeton orientation crew came in, got water, and headed north. And a
Vermonter came in on a twenty mile day from Stratton Pond and is staying.
Shelter company's name is George (no trail name yet). Doing the LT in 16
days with the first week all twenties (job commitment). Gave him a bunch of
my blister kit...
Thought for the day while hiking – Joan Osbourne's song 'What if God Was One
of Us?' - would he be doing a thruhike?
Need to hit the bookstore in Manchester... only having shelter registers is
okay, but they're not long enough. Green Mt Hostel gets rave reviews, as
does Sutton's, and Up For Breakfast still does their hiker special. I'll
definitely make Manchester tomorrow, the real question is how my foot will
do, and if I'll make it out of Manchester on Wed?

9:8: Manchester – Sutton's Place. - Some of the karma is back today, if not
all of the zen...
Up early as nature called. Foot only leaked a little into the bandage last
night. Out on the trail at 6:45 without even rushing. Took a preventative
Aleve before going. Took about a mile and a half for the foot to loosen up
and/or the Aleve to kick in.
Mostly gentle climbing and easy trail to Peru Peak, and a really long ridge
run over to Styles Peak. Met a northbound AT-er in there someplace, no idea
where he slabbed last night. Long drop to Mad Tom Notch where I reluctantly
pulled the boot off for a foot inspection – no blood bath! Just one little
spot right at the cut, and I had been making a good pace too! :  )
Not too bad a climb up Bromley, where I found a pack at the bottom of the
view tower and 'Toodles' at the top... nice young gal from Michigan that
George had told me about, just out having a good time – not even sure which
way she's going when she gets to Maine Junction. She was definitely
interested in the live music and beer at the Inn when I told here about it
though :   )
Long run down Bromley, kept running into Nobos and dayhikers. One of the
dayhikers said showers starting Thursday – today was a bit warm but sunny
and blue – if I can get tomorrow like this I'll be swimming in Stratton Pond
– after that it can rain <g>.
Made the road at 11:30, walked about half a mile and scored a ride, New
Zealander 10 years in Vt... nice guy.
Got dropped off at the bagel place for lunch, had a hummus wrap... yum!
Walked to the library – next county – and send e-mail. Toodles said the
Green Mt Hostel closed today, walked to Sutton's (was expecting Motel), more
like a B&B. Showered, doing laundry. Need to hit bank, grocery, and drug
store. Not to mention Ben&Jerry's <g>, and call home.

9/9/09: Kelly Stand Road – Haven't seen any fresh moose tracks since north
of Maine Junction, but yesterday near Styles Peak I scared either a moose or
a deer – never got to see it tho.
Mexican dinner at The Bean, hit an ice cream stand for dessert. Up For
Breakfast – Apple Danish Bread French Toast with blueberries, bananas and
walnuts... yum!
Hitched out to the trail, truck with NM plates driven by a Vermonter. Out on
the trail sometime after 8am. Not far from the road I thought I saw a pack
ahead of me, then it disappeared... ghost pack? Finally saw two packs and
hikers for sure, but lost them when I stopped to nurse my feet. I got to
within about 50 yards of them at Prospect Rock and followed them up the
road... amazingly we had exactly the same pace. Caught them at the end of
the road; HomeFry from Va and Lefty from Austin Tx. We spent the rest of the
day either hiking together or leapfrogging. HomeFry is a big tall guy with a
shambling hiking gait, Lefty (the gal) was following me at one point and
marvelling that we had the same pace, said that she always felt like she was
trying to keep up with HomeFry just because his pace was so long.
I stopped for a quick break, they caught up again, and we headed for
Stratton Pond <sigh>. Nice place, one of my homes on the trail, and my
planned stop for a short day. I redid the math for the rest of the trip and
thought the day into North Adams would be too long, and reluctantly decided
to push on. Turns out the original math was better and would have worked,
but this will work too.
Long winding climb to Stratton Mt. Met Andrew (LT nobo) at the summit,
complaining about his knees – don't know what he'll do when it gets hard.
Wonderful views from the tower, then headed off on the too long run to Kelly
Stand. Met one Nobo gal that will probably run out of daylight before she
gets to Stratton Pond. Hit the campsite just before the road and my feet
declared “home”. Not to mention my stomach declaring “dinner” - 5:30pm.
While cooking HomeFry and Lefty pulled in.
Have a small blister on my left heel to tend to in the morning – too much
pavement pounding in town.

9/10 – Goddard Shelter – I think fall came in last night, frost on the grass
down by the road this morning, cool temps and cooler breezes all day. Passed
the campsites at Black Brook, nice but glad I didn't move on last night.
Easy trail to Story Spring, one guy getting ready to move on and one woman
tenting(?). Met one AT northbounder in there somewhere, last one? Also met a
couple out walking their English Lab when we hit a road crossing, very
friendly dog :  ) (oops – also met three LT nobos this morning)
Easy green tunnel to early lunch at Kid Gore – nice view but breezy and
really cool. More green tunnel to the firetower on Glastenbury – awesome
views but really windy. Pics from the tower and then a quick trip down to
the shelter, replaced in 2005, but I can't believe that it was in that bad
of shape. Nice to be in early too, time to air things out, read some, and
think about dinner...
The gal we saw briefly at Story Spring this morning hiked in here with her
boyfriend and their dog. Hiding in the shelter waiting for dinner, the sun
is warm but the breeze is NOT! One other change besides the new shelter, the
view that used to be here has grown in, only trees to look at.
Hard to believe that I'll be in North Adams in two days... it's almost
tempting to become an AT southbounder and keep going <vbg>. My karma now has
a big smile on it anyway. Life on the trail is good.

9/11: Congdon Camp – Kelly and Brian and their dog Teva tented at Goddard
last night, so we had some good company.
Clouds moving in with the storm front, but did get some views from the tower
just before bed. Breezes started wafting into the sleeping bag somewhere
near dawn, made it really hard to get up and get going. Clouds were
billowing over the roof of the shelter, intermixed with patches of blue sky.

Left camp about 8:15 (latest start yet) wearing Frogg Toggs and a fleece hat
and gloves to stay warm – no exercise on the downhill run. Gradually ditched
the warm clothes on the climb up the “un-named peak” butt kicker, but
eventually got so cold on the next downhill run that I had to put the jacket
back on. 50 feet later started the first of the intermittent showers. Got a
few patches of sun mixed in, then started hitting hikers coming out of
Melville Nauhiem Sh; two young gals doing the LT, one guy out “until he ran
out of food”, and one couple. Not too much farther on I met two older ladies
that had started from the road, and then a trail runner.
Made it to the road for lunch, no place to sit in the wet, a half hour to
refuel and rehydrate and then hit the vertical climb up Harmon Hill. Not a
lot to say, grind out the vertical on the stone steps... more rain at the
top, moving up to mini-downpours as the wind blew the water out of the
trees. Met a group of three about a mile before the shelter, one of them
sectioning the LT.
Actually made it to the shelter at 2:20, much sooner than I expected but
what you get when it's too wet to take breaks.
Two women passed through, one hiked the LT a few years ago and is out for a
few days with the other one who is doing it this year.
Did something I almost never do and pack some “liquid refreshment” out of
Manchester – good old Southern Comfort – it's made the last couple of nights
nicer (HomeFry and Lefty seem to like it). So after the cold and rain I had
some hot orange Gatorade and added SoCo. Then I took a nap listening to the
rain patter on the roof. Homefry and Lefty pulled in, and shortly later
Mercury pulled in -a Nobo but he's already jumped and done the Whites.

9/12: North Adams, Mass – Restless pulled in after dinner last night, then
another hiker in the dark – in the rain.
Up early, said goodbyes, and managed to be on the trail at 6:30 with a light
rain falling – more like a mist. Of course the wind would keep coming along
and knocking all the water out of the trees in min-downpours... at least it
was warm weather. Couple of climbs to warm things up, but most of the day
was green tunnel, slick roots, mud, and even slicker rocks. What views there
were just showed the inside of clouds. Met one Nobo coming out of Seth
Warner. Hit a few patches of sun after that but they didn't last long.
Started meeting a few more people nearing town, two young gals heading for
the LT nobo, and after the steep, slick, rocky drop from Eph's Lookout hit a
hiking club of five guys.
Got to Mass Rt 2, just had time to pull on a clean shirt when the parents
showed up. Back to civilization...
With apologies to John Fogerty:

Just got home from the Long Trail
Lock the front door, oh boy!
Got to set down
Take a rest on the porch,
Imagination sets in,
Pretty soon I'm singing,
Doo, doo, doo, looking out my back door.
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