[pct-l] Southbound

[Tom Griffin]

Since there isn't a lot of chatter about southbounding, I'll add my two 
cents' worth.

I've met at least two thruhikers who preferred going southbound. Francis 
Tapon wrote an essay about it on his website:
http://www.francistapon.com/Travels/Pacific-Crest-Trail/Why-go-southbound-on-the-PCT

Uber-Hiker Scott Williamson once told me that going southbound was 
easier than hiking northbound. (Of course, he's seen the PCT so many 
more times in the northbound direction, maybe the change of scene a 
southbound hike brings speeds him along.) Even his "honeymoon hike" was 
southbound. On that hike (in 2007), I think Scott and Michele left in 
late June and still had to deal with a lot of snow in the North 
Cascades. So if you decide to leave in mid-June, you have got to expect 
a lot of snow in the North Cascades and it will slow you down. I 
wouldn't bring snowshoes but light-weight crampons are probably a good 
idea. Frankly, I'd wait until late June to start if you can hold off 
that long.

I agree with Lookout's comments below about rain. It's always a problem 
in my home state, and the skies don't usually dry out until July (if 
then). Definitely bring a stove and good raingear. Resupply will be a 
struggle. The road at Harts Pass, the first road crossing after the 
border, probably won't be open in early June. You first chance for 
resupplying will be hitching on Hwy 20 to Mazama or Winthrop from Rainy 
Pass (Winthrop is further but is a real town with good resupply 
options). There really isn't much food in Stehekin to buy--so I would 
definitely send a resupply box there (and pig out at the bakery). Once 
you get to Stevens Pass, you'll have better resupply options and you 
will be in better shape.

Lookout recommends the detour around the east side of Glacier Peak. I 
took the detour in 2005 on a section hike
(http://griffinte.home.comcast.net/~griffinte/pct2005/index.html) and I 
thought it was some of the most beautiful country in the state. However, 
there are two difficult fords in the early season and the extra mileage 
will slow you down (and so will the approach to Little Giant 
Pass--you'll KNOW this isn't the PCT). So I would recommend taking the 
original PCT route, as most of the northbound thruhikers do in 
September, and which Scott and Michele took on their southbound hike in 
2007. The Forest Service has repaired bridges over several creek 
crossings that were washed out in 2003, although you still have to cross 
the Suiattle River on a huge log. You will also have to cross over lots 
of deadfall since you are hiking early in the season, before trail crews 
have had a chance to clear the trails.

But you are going to have a great trip and much more of a wilderness 
experience that those caught in the northbound "herd." Take a look at my 
PCT pages if you want to see some trip reports on my section hikes of 
the Washington PCT.

Tom "Bullfrog" Griffin
http://griffinte.home.comcast.net/~griffinte/pct.html

>
>Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 07:59:38 -0700
>From: Connie Davis <conniedavis at earthlink.net>
>Subject: [pct-l] Southbound PCT
>
>
>My son and I southbounded for most of the trail (Flip-flop in 2005).
>Our journal may give you some ideas on conditions in June, seems like  
>a similar snow year.  http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm? 
>id=103855  (If you have gear questions, I filled that out, too.) Other  
>southbounder journals in "05 would be Blast and Pirouette.   There  
>were quite a few southbounders--the Newlyweds, Burn...check Trail  
>Journals--southbound will be marked on most.
>
>Snow/ice conditions in June:  You will encounter some switchbacks that  
>will be under snow and be needing to contour basins on snow fields.   
>There may be fog.  We wore boots for the first section (big mistake,  
>but more on that later) and had hiking poles. No ice axe, no crampons  
>(although we have experience using both.)  I never felt in danger,  
>although some people did slide down snow fields, but they were being a  
>bit careless (IMHO).  You slow down, plant each foot, plant your  
>trekking poles, don't cross when it's icey, etc.  You didn't mention  
>fords.  There may be some high fords, but again, we used our brains.   
>Cross in the morning, unhook your pack, use your trekking poles, face  
>upstream, go slow, cross where the other animals cross (not where the  
>trail does if it looks bad.)  We forded in our trail runners and just  
>wore them dry.  (Hard to do in boots!)
>
>Shoes:  We thought we would be clever and switch from our trail  
>runners to boots for rainy/snow conditions.  We both wish we hadn't.   
>As soon as we could (Rainy Pass) we switched back to trail runners and  
>I wore Merrells, my son wore North Face.  Wear what works for you.   
>Fording: I took out  my insoles, spenco, and took off my socks.   
>Walked across the stream/river.  Used my camptowel to squeeze as much  
>water out of shoes as possible, put insoles and wool socks back on and  
>kept walking.  My son sometimes wore flip-flops in slow streams.  Feet  
>were often wet but always warm once we'd hiked a bit.
>
>Rain will actually be your biggest bummer.  You will be hiking through  
>amazing country and can't see it!  We did stop early several days  
>because we were too cold or wet or getting close to it.  Make sure you  
>carry some extra food if you need to hunker down for a day or so.  A  
>hot beverage when the rain stops is a blessing!  I wouldn't do this  
>section without a stove in June.
>
>Calories:  I did the calorie calculations, etc. and we tried to carry  
>that much food. We are both vegetarian.  My son lost weight, I didn't  
>(common male-female phenomenon).  We added TVP to meals, carried olive  
>oil until we got sick of the taste (butter is great if it is cold  
>enough out to carry it.)  I added protein powder to our breakfast  
>drinks.  We ate lots of nuts.  We gorged in town.  Pizza, beer, ice  
>cream!  When we noticed Alex was losing weight, we upped his calories  
>by adding more bars.
>
>Reading the guides backwards:  Challenging.  We did get confused on  
>occasion.  (I don't believe in being lost, just confused).  I also  
>miscalculated miles at least once, but it all works out.  We relied on  
>additional maps.  I purchased Green Trails maps for all of  
>Washington.  The PCT is clearly marked and you can see all the options  
>for exit if needed.  I purchased additional maps for Oregon at the REI  
>in Portland when we were at Cascade Locks. I also carried a road map  
>(with parts cut off)--again, if you need to get out, you know where  
>the roads are.  Best thing about hiking southbound is the views!! You  
>will have amazing views of Rainier and the Goat Rocks that most PCTers  
>miss (and of course, you will miss some amazing northbound views.)
>
>Breaking up sections:  See road maps, above.  Check out the forest  
>service websites to see which FS roads are open and for trail reports.
>
>Glacier Peak reroute:  I LOVE THE REROUTE!  It was the most beautiful  
>part of the entire trail for me.  It was challenging, strenuous and  
>drop-dead gorgeous.  Three fords, 2 passes in one day...stunning.  
>Wildflowers, bears, crossing a glacial river...it doesn't get better  
>than that.
>
>Lookout
>
>----------------------------------------------------
>  
>
>Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 22:29:39 -0700
>From: jonathan king <jwking at gmail.com>
>Subject: [pct-l] pct southbound 2009 (when, what to wear on the feet,
>	and calories / 	lbs per day)
>To: pct-l at backcountry.net
>Message-ID:
>	<5664db550904292229x2afc1f7id5d6d554bc57f9ce at mail.gmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
>Hello all, just joined the list serve.
>
>I am hiking with a friend who doesn't finish school until late May and we
>have just recently decided to head southbound - a decision largely based on
>a desire not to be in SoCal for all of hot hot June. Other appealing factors
>include a less populated trail in OR and WA, less extreme average weather
>(rain, temp, etc). I know water will be more of an issue ini SoCal, but
>water consumption will hopefully be offset by cooler temps.
>
>After doing a little research, it seems that snowfall in the Northern
>Cascades in 80% of normal this year. We are aiming for a June 14th start
>date.
>
>A few questions:
>
>Any other SoBounders around?
>When are you leaving?
>Why south?
>
>Other things I'm wondering about:
>
>I don't have much (any) of experience backpacking in snow or ice and I
>assume at a minimum that we will have snowy / icy accents of the northern
>slopes.
>
>Crampons, snowshoes or both? ( I will have an ice axe).
>
>Right now I'm leaning toward oversized stiffer trail runners to accommodate
>socks and vapor barrier system.
>
>I know it's hard to tell 7 weeks out, but does anyone have:
>
>predictions for trail conditions?
>general footwear ideas?
>
>thanks!
>

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