[pct-l] risk reduction on swift water crossings

Kea keahiker at gmail.com
Tue Nov 24 20:59:32 CST 2009


If there is any chance, you may "go for a dip" while crossing, then you
should waterproof your pack; ie seal open bags and tie the pack top so water
can not pour in.  All of you important gear should already be in waterproof
bags and if you pack does not have a high degree of waterproofness, then *
everything* should be in a plastic bag - pack liner.  If you then go in,
your pack will float; and be buoyant enough to support you.

What to do if you are washed down (opinions vary):

Technique 1:  Lie on your chest on your (buoyant) pack until you reach
calmer water when you can make it to shore.  The pack will protect you from
rocks.  Keep your feet up to prevent damage from rocks.

Technique 2:  Abandon your pack and float down on your back, feet first.
Use your feet to fend off rocks.

Both techniques have the disadvantage of it being difficult to stand up to
exit the river.  Once off your feet, this can be extremely difficult.  Be
very very careful that your foot does not get trapped between two rocks.  If
it does, your will go to the bottom of the river and the force of the river
will make it next to impossible to recover from.

Kea.



2009/11/25 <herbstroh at charter.net>

> As others have commented, I would NOT be connected to a rope on a swift
> water crossing. If you slip you will not be able to pull yourself and pack
> upstream against the current while holding your breath underwater. It would
> be better to wash downstream, oust the pack and try and scramble to a rock
> or shore.
>
> You can almost always find a better place to cross than where the trail
> hits the water. Even if that is a mile up or down stream. Better to take the
> time and find something less risky.
>
> Whether to unhook the lap belt is an "it depends" decision to me. If the
> crossing is on a log or involves a hop, an unhooked belt could lead to the
> pack shifting and throwing me off balance. If balance is critical, I
> normally leave it buckled. But if its a wet foot crossing and sudden moves
> are less likely, then I unbuckle.
>
> If one does fall, getting out of the pack is the first thing you must do.
> It will immediately fill with water and become a 100 pound anchor.
>
> Herb
>
>
> ---- David Plotnikoff <david at emeraldlake.com> wrote:
> > Hello from a longtime list-lurker.
> >
> > Folks, I hesitate to broach this subject because I haven't had cause
> > to use the technique myself, but .... in theory at least, it's
> > possible to safely self-belay across fast water by carrying a short
> > (>20m) stretch of climbing rope, plus a belay device and a locking
> > biner. Run the rope around a stout tree on the bank you're starting
> > from, double through the ATC, which is attached by the locker to your
> > pack's hip belt, and have at it, facing upstream and crab-walking
> > sideways. One hand on a hiking pole, the other on your self-belay
> > brake hand. Safe on the other side, unclip the ATC and pull the
> > doubled rope across after you.
> >
> > Sounds clear in theory. Like I said ... being the fair-season PCT
> > type, I haven't had to do it myself. But it's something to think
> > about for those of you who are intent on leaving KM early. Does it
> > sound like a lot of extra weight to carry? Weigh ALL the variables
> > carefully. If you're far ahead of the pack and the melt, you're on
> > your own. Waiting for another hiker or two to facilitate a safer
> > crossing will probably not be practical. Going commando with no
> > protection and nobody else around may well be suicidal at places such
> > as Rock, Wallace or Bear creeks. So this might be a reasonable weight
> > addition for aggressive early season folks to consider. Be sure to
> > practice the mechanics BEFORE your trip ...
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > DP
> >
> > www.emeraldlake.com/pctguide/
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