[pct-l] Mtn. Education's advice for KM northbound (long)

[ned at mountaineducation.org]

Soon we will be leaving for the trail north of Kearsarge, but before we begin repacking new supplies, I want to give those northbound out of Kennedy Meadows some advice based on our recent journey in that area and ranging from gear and food to techniques and wilderness skills.

A quick note: Looks like the Thaw is about to start! When the nighttime temps stop dipping below freezing and the daytime ones get up into the 70's, then watch out for the creek crossings! According to the NOAA forecasts for inner Kings Canyon, we all should be cookin' during the day and water bottles will stop freezing during the night starting this week. Take good and strong sunscreen (spf 30-50) depending on your skin coloring.

Now, on to the good stuff (abbreviated version of what will be in our Snow Guide book to the PCT):


Traction and balance Control--
When the mornings offer crusty snow, take advantage of it and start early so you can walk on the surface without post-holing. If your ascents are in the morning (as they should be), be very careful that your footwear doesn't "roll" when you sidestep up the climb. A good, stiff backpacking boot is essential unless you plan on toeing in all the way up in a self-belay fashion. We would not be here to tell you this after our Forester climb last week if we were not so equipped. Crampons and other instep traction devices will only clog up in most springtime sierra snow. Don't be convinced into a false sense of security otherwise without first testing them for yourselves in the conditions present right now. 

Ice axes are a must for self-belay ascents and dealing with hard, crusty morning footholds. The Whippet self-arrest pole is great for its limited focus (self-arrest) while walking on inclined slopes, but not recommended as a secure and predictable anchor while ascending any of the passes in the high sierra. The longer the better so you don't have to bend over too far and loose your balance carving out footholds. (Sorry, guys, I realize that longer equals heavier, but how much do you value your life?)

Snowshoes are excellent in avoiding post-holing. When the snow starts to get soft (the hotter it gets earlier in the day, the sooner this will be) and you start suddenly doing those jarring plunges that seize your body and take all your energy, stop and put on your snowshoes. They may slow you down, but you'll be able to keep on going safely. Beware of all steep descents and traverses--many snowshoe models will simply turn into skis and you'll loose control. Consider plunge-stepping in these conditions. 


Strategy--

If the creeks are wide and wild, cross them in the morning. The same goes for the passes. So, camp at the crossings, usually only a few miles from the next pass, and do both early the next morning. We like to cross in our boots. What this accomplishes for us is full ankle stability, pain-free rock wedging, and a predictable and balanced platform on which to stand while "feeling" for each step in the white water of many crossings. This may not be what you had in mind, but it keeps us safe and gets us home (not to mention to the other side). Once on the other side, change socks (carry multiple pairs) and walk your leather boots dry. If you are still on snow, as long as you are keeping the exterior of the boots well treated, they will dry out nicely from the inside out. 

Do you climbs in the morning and get below snowline before the snow turns to mush and you have to put on your snowshoes. If there is still a lot of snow up there, say from 10,000 up, this may not be possible. Snowshoes allow you to keep going in the afternoons. Otherwise, by doing this, you will still be able to get some decent mileage in each day. 

Realize that in snow you will have to slow down. If you can grind out ten miles, you are doing well. Our favorite expression to this regard is, "Double your food and halve you mileage." Personally, I consume lots of food when travelling in snow and can literally eat a 3-man serving and still be looking around for desert. If you do not take this seriously, you will be added to the list of Sierra thru hikers who starved their way up the trail (to VVR). Carry the weight so you have the energy to do the work it takes to be safe. Carry more stove fuel, too.

Depending on the softness of the snow when you come to a pass, the safest way up is to self-belay straight up (beware of rocks, ice, etc.), especially if the snow is on the soft side. Otherwise, if the snow is crustier, consider boot-on-edge traverses with ace in the uphill hand and an extended pole in the downhill one. Take your time; the fall could kill you

Glissading can be one of the most fun things you will ever do in the backcountry. "Fun with a purpose," my son "Munch" said recently. The safest version is done seated with some form of rudder control like your poles held together, baskets (yes, those used for snow) at your hip (take one of our free Snow Courses and we'll show you). Next, consider skating on your boots, poles out to the sides for balance control. If you choose this standing version, realize that you speed up when you place you weight on the balls of your feet and you stop when you rock back onto you heels (works best with boots that have vertical-front-edged heels). If you loose your balance, just sit down. Be prepared to avoid getting wet by wearing full-zip Gore-tex pants and tight, low-riding gaitors (don't forget the gloves).


Clothing--
Although the nights will be getting warmer, a snow storm can blow into the Sierra any month of the year, so be prepared with thermal layers for both you upper and lower body. When the cold wind blows, carry a good shell. A fleece hat and gloves are never left behind. For those like me who get cold easily, pack a good down parka like the Mountain Hardwear Sub-Zero (doubles as a pillow). You do not want to get cold--ever. Once it starts, it's very difficult for many to get warm any time soon without serious exercise or pitching to get out of the weather or a hot meal ingested. Solar exposure can be a big deal, too, so carry good sunscreen and don't forget to apply to the underside of your nose, tops of the ears, and all around the neck and forehead. Good mountaineering glasses are priceless, too. I have been snow-blinded twice in the past and do not want to go through it again. We have chosen the Julbo brand for this Spring's video production along the Crest and have been thoroughly pleased (their forward vents and lens color we love best). Carry spf 30 lip balm close to your body and use frequently (burned lips are a pain, too).


Gear for the Snow--
Sleeping Bags: 
Take one in which you will be warm down to ten degrees (this you have personally tested in the snow and know to be accurate for you). Most of our nights during the winter and early spring get as low as the single digits, but not often. From Kennedy Meadows north, we had temps in the range of zero to twenty-eight (May 10 on). If you get hot, simply sleep underneath.

Sleeping Pads:
Down-filled versions like the Exped are priceless to comfort and a sound night's sleep on snow. They have such an R-rating (insulative value) that your sleeping bag can be rated warmer and save you weight and volume.

Stoves:
Yes, the canister stoves work just fine. We have used ours (Jetboil and MSR) into sub-zero conditions without any troubles whatsoever. Carry a lighter next to your body in case the sparkers fail to work. Use the mixed fuel canisters.

Snowshoes:
Choose a design that will handle traverses. The MSR Lightning Ascents do the best job of this we have found and are durable enough to go the distance (we have had many designs simply disintegrate over the years of running our Wilderness Skills Institute). Accept the weight on your pack when you are not wearing them. When you need them, you will be thankful.

Socks/Insoles:
Know your feet and their fit in your boots. If your feet start "talking" to you about pain, you may be leaving the trail soon. Talk to your boot manufacturer about what they recommend; they have very strong feelings about boot "fit." It is a very individual issue. We used to think two pair of socks, one, a thin inner liner, and the other a thick outer was the best way to fill out a boot. Our favorite manufacturer, Limmer Boot, recommends only one, the Smartwool "Trekker" to be used inside their boots, and that's about the reality of it for our staff. Superfeet "blue" holds our heels in place well, too. You have to figure this combination out for yourself to avoid on-trail problems. Do lots of hiking pre-trip to iron this out.

Boots:
We have never had such good experiences with any type of boot (leather uppers, medium-weight insoles, and deep-lugged Vibram soles), considering the varied foot sizes and shapes of our staff, as we have had with Limmer Boots. They are traditionally designed and stiff when new, yet none of us have ever had a blister--even with next to no break-in period! If you value foot protection, predictable balance, ankle stability, and a little free-swinging weight on your feet, these are the ticket to many years of hiking ahead.

Tents:
As snow can hit in the Sierra any month of the year, we carry roomy three or four season shelters. The design key is that their poles intersect at the top of the tent to hold the weight of snow. A large vestibule for storage and cooking is oh, so convenient. As we recently had to endure during a multi-day snow storm at Tyndall Creek, the extra size of a tent is valuable for sanity when you are tent-bound and have to stay indoors all day. Forget the footprint on snow.


Food--
Eat often and eat a lot. Not much more to it than that. You have license to be a pig. Snow takes a lot out of you and you'll need it, so carry everything that appeals to you, then double it. We go heavy on fatty foods and meat, the real stuff and not dehydrated. Once you get to the Sierra, you'll be strong enough to handle the weight of snow gear and real food, so don't worry about it. The route out of Kennedy Meadows is mellow enough to build muscle in time for the high passes, anyway. Remember, even perishable food like cream cheese does well when you can pack it in snow overnight! 


Wilderness Skills--
Know how to navigate by topo and environmental awareness (take our Snow Course). Know how to find the trail in a forest (clues). Know the route ahead and what to expect to see. Practice how to respond when you aren't so sure where the trail is. Learn how to use a GPS to narrow down trail locations, but don't rely too heavily in case the batteries fail. Always carry a large scale map so you know how to get out of the mountains in an emergency.

Consider carrying a satellite phone for two-way communication with the outside world (no misunderstandings).

Know how to climb, descend, and traverse steep snow slopes. Self-arrest practice that becomes a reflex is a must to save your life. You may not have a bad experience, but all it takes is a slip.... Know when to stop.

Know how to find and collect water safely from snow-encased creeks, lakes, and buried springs. You don't want to fall in or get wet in the least when the outside temps are in the twenties.

***

I hope all this helps you have a safe and happy trip through the Sierra snows. Take your time. It is an incredibly beautiful Range of Light when covered in snow, but dangerous, also. When The Complete Snow Guide to the Pacific Crest Trail comes out, there will be lots of the above and more....




Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
1106A Ski Run Blvd
South Lake Tahoe, Ca. 96150
    P: 888-996-8333
    F: 530-541-1456
    C: 530-721-1551
    http://www.mountaineducation.org