[pct-l] Hidden Gems of Bridgeport

[Gary Swing]

"Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated." -- Mark Twain, writing from the Sierra Nevadas
 
Bodie was a town so lawless that in 1881 it was described as "... a sea of sin, lashed by the tempests of lust and passion." -- Quoting Rev. F.M. Warrington
 
  
     The Pacific Crest Trail crosses Sonora Pass 31 miles or more from the isolated, expensive town of Bridgeport. When we arrived on the evening of July 6, the footprints in the snow cut off the actual pass crossed by Grizzly Adams, leading to an excellent campsite at the Sonora Pass Trailhead which featured several flat, snow-free patches of ground, picnic tables, an outhouse, and a sign that read: "No Camping Here." (There were also good stealth tent sites between the picnic area and the pass.)
 
     On the morning of July 7, following an unsuccessful four and a half hour effort to hitch a ride on Highway 108, Redblaze begged a couple of hikers with the only car parked at the trailhead to reverse their travel plans and drive us to town. I had already abandoned hope of getting a hitch and had walked about six miles down the highway.
 
     My first impression of Bridgeport was very negative. This star-spangled garrison of super-patriotism wore a uniform coating of "Support Our Troops" and "God Bless America" signs. Don't even think about checking into the Redwood Motel. The manager of this greatly overpriced, shabby hole in the wall was extremely rude. The Bridgeport Inn offered cheaper rates for rooms with a shared bath down the hall.
 
     Even if you would rather sleep in a ditch by the side of the highway than stay in Bridgeport, you must take a tour of any vacant rooms at the Victorian Hotel. This unique, quirky and eccentric establishment is a true gem. The hotel was moved here from the ghost town of Bodie in 1910. Each room has a different theme. Check out the peculiar, elaborate, and sometimes clashing or humorous decor. The hotel manager Randy was cool, friendly, and hilarious. He offered us locally competitive rates. We enjoyed staying in the tilted Jean Harlow Room (Number 4) with its psychedelic fuzzy green wallpaper, antique furniture, big soft beds, down comforters, and shag carpet. Other rooms were named for Mark Twain and Napoleon Bonaparte.
 
     Long after hiker midnight, a couple of stand-up and stagger-around comedians below our window treated us to a lively and entertaining debate (in cowboy drawl) concerning the relative merits of drunk driving and the local rodeo.
 
     At all costs, avoid buying groceries in Bridgeport, or all the costs you pay will be as high as the Sierra Crest. Buster's Market has closed up shop, so we were subjected to the hyper-inflated prices and refugee camp selection of the redundantly named Bridgeport General Store Market.
 
     If you must resupply in Bridgeport, send a mail drop to the Post Office or check the Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, or Friday morning schedules of Eastern Sierra Transit. Walk over to the Bridgeport General Store Market and take a long bus ride to a real grocery store in Smiths or Gardenerville.
 
     On the culinary scene, Pop's Galley is Bridgeport's gem in the rough. This nominally seafood themed counter service cafe has good food on a thru hiker's budget. A banner outside advertised all-you-can-eat pancakes and coffee for $2.99. They serve breakfast until 11:00 am, but the cook agreed to feed us pancakes at lunch time. The woman at the counter said that I could win a free, subsequent meal if I could beat their current record of consuming six plate sized pancakes. I was stuffed after five and a half. We went back to Pop's for dinner. We bought veggie burgers for $4.59, fried zucchini for $4.49, a large order of fries, and good beer for $3.69. Cheap beers were $2.69. Pop's also features sundaes, milkshakes, and smoothies. We returned to Pop's for breakfast this morning.
 
     Now we are desperately hoping that some motorist will take pity on us, so we can avoid walking up more than thirty miles of highway to return to the PCT.
 
Half Fast