[pct-l] Ice axe & crampons, really?

Ned Tibbits ned at mountaineducation.org
Wed Feb 13 12:30:53 CST 2013


We recently posted on this subject at the FB page, “PCT class of 2013,” and thought it should be shared to the pct-l as well:

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For those who don't know us (www.mountaineducation.org) yet, we have been teaching wilderness safety skills for the last 31 years. Primarily winter/snow skills to show backpackers that they can enjoy their sport year 'round. 

Anyway, the long version of the question, "Do I need an ice axe/crampons with me on my thru hike of the PCT?" can be found at our school's website under Resources or at our Facebook home page (Mountain Education). 

The short version is this: 

Since thru hikers need to reach Canada before the mid-September threat of powder snowfall, it is necessary that they traverse the high sierra during May, June, and July when plenty of snow is still covering large parts of the trail (usually above 10 or 11,000 feet). Snow is slippery, crusty, and hard in the mornings (as long as it was below freezing the night before) and is easily stood upon without falling through the icy crust (postholing). 

Almost-normal walking mechanics can be easily accomplished at this time. You will really want some form of "traction device" like hiking crampons to secure your foot's grip on the slippery surface. If you've ever had to walk on an ice arena, you'll know what I'm talking about. (That is why better traction is found off the beaten trough!) 

As the sun heats up the surface of the crust or ice in the steps of others from days before, the surface softens and the lugs in your shoes will get a better grip, but the frozen surface is just beneath. When this layer softens, too, your concern will change from slip-and-fall to posthole injuries. Get your miles in before this happens or at least get off the soft snow onto "dry trail" by posthole-time. 

When the route (because you can go anywhere you want over snow) become sloped or steep, any fall can lead to a quick slide into whatever is below you (trees, rocks, cliff, ditch, etc.) where trauma occurs. This happens quickly and usually when you're distracted from being careful with your steps. Having teeth on the balls of your feet (not forward as in 12-point crampons) is often sufficient to save your balance from a mis-step or slip, thus instep crampons do not cut it out on the PCT (maybe if you always walk flat-footed...). 

When you fall (and you probably will; we all do), you'll need to arrest that slide before it gets up to speed! Having a BD Whippet in-hand will do the trick! It is not an ice axe and cannot do all the critical things that an axe can, but it is in-hand every time you slip. This is important. 

Most thrus do not have the experience or training to identify hazards ahead, STOP and get their axes out, and proceed ahead cautiously. Most are busy talking and following someone in the lead, who is usually just following in the trough ahead of him. 

We, on Mountain Education's Snow Skills Courses, always have in-hand a Whippet self-arrest pole whenever we are out on-snow teaching anything, anywhere, no matter the short length of the patch of snow. We carry axes, also, in steep country because they are indispensable to secure your safety and peace of mind when you need an up-hill anchor on ascent or steep traverse out of trough or while early-season snow-hiking. Axes are priceless when needing to chop steps in ice and make great rudders when doing a seated glissade down a pass or steep section (you'll want to do this!). The Whippet is too long and too flexible to pull this task off well (if you take one of our Snow Basics Courses, we can show you the safety tricks you'll need to learn before you suddenly find yourself in need). 

However, for the most part, thru hikers will not be the first ones through an area and will be walking "in the trough" made by others. Although this "trail-trough” is seldom level, the Reality of the circumstance is that an axe will be rarely used for anchoring, traction will be your main concern (hence, the need for Kahtoola hiking crampons), and a Whippet (you only need one) will do quite nicely for any self-arrest needs. 


Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
www.mountaineducation.org


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