[pct-l] conditions report, Castle Crags through Hwy. 140 (Fish Lake) LONG

[David Plotnikoff]

Hello from a longtime list-lurker.

The following notes cover California sections P, Q and R, and Oregon 
sections A and B.  The conditions noted were observed between July 7 
and July 20, 2007. If you are using these notes to plan - 
particularly water sources - be emphatically warned that these 
conditions may no longer be the case.

It would be nice if someone who is scheduled to be driving I-5 
(perhaps in support of a thru-hiking friend or relative) could print 
out copies of this report and place them in a ziplock bag at the 
green gate TH (the beginning of Castle Crags, at the I-5 underpass) 
so the remaining thrus will be able to use this information.

Overall, trail is in excellent condition for the 250 miles from 
Castle Crags through Fish Lake. No reroutes or closures noted. Bugs 
are somewhere between light and non-existent. The recent blowdowns do 
not represent more than a nuisance to walkers. But there are several, 
particularly one large one up Grider Creek drainage, that will be a 
problem for equestrians. Several sections of the trail have received 
recent brushing and tread work. Many of the smaller creeklets and 
springs listed as year-round sources in the databook are down to mud. 
Larger sources are fine.

Several camp possibilities (and possible trail magic in cooler and 
ammo cans) just north of the road cross at the Gumboot/Road 26 
trailhead. No other decent camp options until the saddle approx 1:10 
north, where the trail flips to the west side of the crest and 
steepens.

A spring immediately downslope of the trail, bracketed by two mud 
seeps, is flowing well at 41.14.842x122.30.643. It's hard to miss. 
This is 90 minutes north from the trailhead.

Porcupine Lake, 2.5 hours north of the trailhead, is unseen from the 
trail. The unsigned spur junction is now easier to spot with the 
cairn. The steep descending spur to Toad Lake is cairned but faint.

The PCT comes within a few yards of Middle Deadfall Lake, with a 
gigantic and well-used camp on the NW shore. Tons of daytrippers 
through here. The spring 1.4 miles after Deadfall Lakes is running 
well. In 1:15 past Road 17, see a great sloping meadow with passable 
camping options. The serviceable creek, the Middle Fork of High Camp 
Creek, is *after* the meadow at 41.21.087x122.34.523. Note that this 
is the last on-trail water for approx. 24 miles, to Mosquito Lake 
outlet creek. It is not listed in the databook.

Chilcoot Creek is down to just mud puddles. Not a water source. Bull 
Lake offers beat-up, poor camp options and iffy pond water that will 
do in a pinch. If you didn't load at Middle Deadfall, you should 
detour to Bull - and treat it. The outlet creek is not running.

On the long decline noted three mud seeps crossing trail in quick 
succession. The only trickle that might still be running is in Pocket 
Meadow just prior to the brief clearcut section. Note excellent and 
extensive new tread work through here by the Backcounry Horsemen of 
America. Masterson Meadow Lake's outlet creek is dry. If you can't 
hold out for water until Scott Summit, look for the short right spur 
to unseen Masterson Meadow Lake about a mile beyond the clearcut.

At Scott Summit (Hwy. 3) crossing, databook lists water as .25 miles 
south. It's much closer. Maybe 200 yards. A good strong flow. Better 
to get it on the left side of the road.

2.8 miles of nasty climbing after the road cross, see the boundary 
sign for Trinity Alps Wilderness and a smaller sign noting a spring 
150 feet downslope. Didn't check it out.

After Telephone Lake junction, cross three muddy seeps, then two 
gullies both with good water. The first looks like it might last a 
while. The second has a great single-space on a shelf 15 feet 
downslope.

Encounter a good strong spring approximately 45 minutes after going 
through the Mavis/Wolford four-way junction.

At the Scott River, it's important to take the FIRST major water you 
see. While some maps, including NGS Topo, show two tributary 
crossings, the second one is a trickle compared to the first.

In Russian Canyon, Bingham Lake's outlet creek is a reliable source, 
flowing under big boulders. Easiest place to draw is from above the 
trail. After that, three other trickles were also flowing in Russian 
Canyon as of 7/10. No guarantees as to their durability.

Payne Lake outlet creek is the last on-trail water through Shelly 
Lake outlet creek - 16.6 miles.

In Etna, the default place to hitch a ride back up the hill to Etna 
Summit is in front of the Alderbrook Manor B&B (which also happens to 
include the celebrated hiker hut). The B&B caretaker was very 
generous about arranging rides. Gas money is appreciated.

Bearcub Spring is signed by a board lying flush with the ground on 
the right side of trail tread. Supposedly a five minute walk, uphill. 
Didn't check it out.

Beyond Shelly Lake's outlet creek, the only substantial water was a 
very nice creek (plus camp) at 41.29.673x123.06.060, just prior to 
Fisher and Marten lakes. The many seeps and trickles running in the 
vicinity didn't appear to have much staying power. Don't bank on 
them. The standing water in Fisher and Marten is foul and green.

The creeklet just before the "old" PCT route branches to the east of 
the crest (signed Kidder Lake) and the current route climbs into 
Maneaten basin is running strong. It is the last bankable water 
directly on the trail for 8.1 miles. The databook omits any mention 
of water here.

The point where the old and new routes diverge is well-signed. The 
point where they rejoin, at the north end of Maneaten Basin, is 
unsigned and ambiguous. At that reunion junction -- 
41.31.037x123.07.511 -- you want the left (downward-trending) branch.

Softwater Spring, 20 feet downslope from the trail on a grassy open 
slope, is running barely. Don't bank on it.

Creek just prior to Marble Valley Guard Station is bankable.

Noted two weak springs running in the mile past the guard station. 
And two excellent dry camps downslope in the shadow of Black Marble 
Mountain. The best spring in the area is at 41.36.431x123.12.445. You 
may have to bushwhack 10 or 20 feet up from trail tread to get a good 
clean draw.

At Paradise Lake, get superior water from the spring-fed inlet creek 
as you enter the cirque and approach the lakeshore, NOT from the 
sometimes foul outlet creek .25 miles later.

Buckhorn Spring is currently a mud hole four inches deep and two feet 
in diameter. Easy to spot when Buckhorn Mountain is at 90 degrees to 
your right. Look for a spectacular three-trunked red-fir. In the open 
meadow just past it, see a post with pink fluorescent tape on it, 50 
yards down a spur from the PCT tread. Precise location of the cairn 
and spur is 41.40.209x123.15.108.

Coldwater Creek, just prior to the big bushwhack down Grider Creek 
drainage, offers the best camp option and water in the area. Noted 
zero camps at "first bridge" and "second bridge." The good camp at 
"third bridge" is actually visible 200-300 yards north of the bridge 
cross, and its access spur has been swallowed and obliterated by the 
undergrowth. All of Grider Creek is a bit brushy. Nothing a big 
machete and a tanker of Agent Orange wouldn't fix. Mind the poison 
oak here. Not a good place to be walking in shorts.

North of Cook & Green Pass, see Tin Cup Trail 961 junction. 
41.57.218x123.04.726. About 300 yards north of the Tin Cup junction, 
see the signed Beardog Spring, with outstanding water 25 feet to the 
right of the trail. Yet again, it is not listed in databook as such. 
It may appear in databook as "Lowdens Cabin Site."

At Beargound Spring, forget trying to get a clean draw out of the two 
mud bogs crossing the trail. Proceed to the next road cross. Take it 
to the right and see a much better, clearer flow.

Near the CA/OR state line, avoid the cow-fouled water in Donomore 
Creek and instead pull from the spring-fed creeklet crossing the 
trail just after sighting the Donomore cabin uphill on your left.

Noted one barely flowing spring crossing the trail approx. 1 hour 
after the CA/OR line, on the long mellow climb to Observation Gap. Go 
upslope to get a good draw.

Sheep Camp Spring is great water - ice cold, pure and gushing out of 
the pipe. One of the very few places on the trail I trust to go 
untreated. This is the last bankable on-trail water through Mt. 
Ashland Inn, 18 miles. There are four trickles crossing the trail in 
the 1.5 miles after Mt. Ashland Campground spur road cross. Take the 
first. Don't count on any of them to last much longer.

After the faucet at Mt. Ashland Inn, there may be three trickles 
running across the trail. Treat "fenced-in spring" - 14 miles later - 
as the next bankable source.

2.1 miles past "fenced-in spring" disregard the stock pond ("spring 
fed tub") to the left of the trail as a potential water source or 
camp. Totally cow fouled and unusable. No water in the rusted out 
tub. Dubious black hose running into brackish stock pond.

Water at the dam at Little Hyatt is iffy at best. Hold out for the 
faucet at Hyatt Lake, which is clearly marked on the large map at the 
road crossing.

The pay phone at the entrance to Hyatt Lake campground is 
non-functional. The nearest phone is at Hyatt Lake Resort, a .75 mile 
roadwalk on the road heading west. Hyatt Lake Resort, formerly a 
notorious dump, is much improved, with a superior pizza restaurant, 
very nice cabin/trailers, laundry and $1 beer in the little store. 
(No, you could not resupply here.) This is a very worthwhile stop if 
you didn't zero in Ashland.

At Howard Prairie Lake, Klum Landing's piped water is the best bet. 
Grizzly Creek and the outlet canal that parallels it are both 
absolutely foul. Except for a signed spur to a spring near the top of 
the climb around Old Baldy, figure it's dry from Klum through S. 
Brown Mtn. Shelter. At the shelter the water from the pump is fine, 
despite persistent rumors to the contrary.

Water at Hwy 140 is immediately after the road cross at the "canal" 
(actually a creek). Fish Lake is a long detour to the west. If you're 
going, the lateral is signed well, .25 miles prior to the highway 
cross.

Cordially,


David Plotnikoff

"Best On the Crest"
www.emeraldlake.com/pctguide