[pct-l] ice axe length

Ken Murray kmurray at pol.net
Sun Jan 30 13:04:42 CST 2011


Good Afternoon, Steel-Eye.

Now, I know you've been hiking the PCT since before there was dirt, but you apparently 
don't realize that the standard term for using an axe to PREVENT a fall, by planting
the shaft, is referred to as "self belay", often shortened to "belay".  
This technique does not involve a rope,
but is the standard technique for travel across an inclined snowfield.  It is very 
well described in "Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hills".

Also, you may not be familiar with what are called technical ice tools, designed
for climbing VERTICALLY.  These have VERY short handles, as they are designed to be used 
in one hand (generally in pairs).  You cannot do a standard self-arrest with these tools,
as you cannot take the two handed grip across the trunk of the body, because the shaft is
too short. (typically less than 1/2 the length of a regular axe).  

This is the extreme of the "short" handle axe, but some people, in a drive to be as light 
as possible, may think that this is a viable option.  It is not, as you can neither arrest 
nor belay with them.

I'm sure you didn't mean to confuse anyone. 


"Good afternoon,

Belaying, with or without an ice axe, is something done with climbing ropes;
and climbing ropes are very rarely seen on the trail and even more rarely
needed.  Saying self-arrest can’t be performed with a short ice axe is just
plain silly.



Steel-Eye"




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