[pct-l] Ice axes?

Ned Tibbits ned at mountaineducation.org
Sat Mar 2 13:57:57 CST 2013


As Scott said, there are storms heading our way, so don't count your "low 
snowpack chickens" before they're hatched! Keep in mind, two years ago, the 
season started out fairly mild, then died through mid-January to March, then 
we got 21 feet! (Now we refer to that sort of thing as a miracle-march).

Gary is right. The Desert Divide and Fuller Ridge can be and have often been 
pretty hazardous to thru hikers on north and east aspects (think ice and 
shade). That's why we will be going out there with the video cameras, again, 
to document what it's like and the skills and wisdom needed to get through 
it safe and found before attending the Kickoff where we want to tell you all 
about it during our Mountain Safety and Snow Travel presentation that we do 
every year.

Regarding the practical use of ice axes while hiking the PCT...

First, some of our observations from the perspective of the Wilderness 
School over the past 8 years alone:

- most thru hikers don't know enough about hazardous snow conditions until 
they've been dangerously educated by them.
- If they get through that experience with only bumps and bruises, they 
start paying attention while snow hiking for slick surfaces to prepare for.
- Weight carried is the pre-conceived main issue on-trail, not snow safety 
and training, so few want to add on an ice axe or hiking crampons.
- most don't know how to use either when they start their hikes.
- most don't want to stop their pace over the snow to take out their ice 
axes, even if they see something questionable ahead.
- most don't believe anything nasty will happen to them and that they can 
get "trained" by others while they're out there.
- some have the strength and common sense to get through, learning as they 
go.
- few seriously question or challenge their skill base before hitting the 
snow.
- most have heard people encourage them to discover the reality of snow 
hiking by going out there, themselves, but few do.
- most fall with axe and crampons on their backs, slide, and get hurt to one 
degree or another, then go out and buy an axe or crampons.

Next, the practical reality of the issue:

- it is better to have a self-arrest pole in-hand always than to rely upon 
your incredible training or extensive experience. Even the best of us fall. 
This often happens when we are too excited, moving too fast, distracted, or 
making the hasty assumption that "nothing's going to happen!" Thus, the 
Black Diamond Whippet is more practical for snow hiking than an ice axe for 
most of the day. 
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/ski/ski-poles/whippet-self-arrest-ski-pole/ 
. The PCT has slopes that can be defined as not "snow hiking," but more like 
"boot mountaineering." These slopes are not everywhere, but where they are, 
they are a critical challenge for most. Do not be hasty here. Stop and 
consider your route and the safety tools and techniques that you have. The 
Whippet can not do everything needed for your definitive safety while snow 
hiking, but covers most of the bases.

- an ice axe is the definitive tool for self-belay, deep anchors, and 
self-arrest, but if you're in the "herd" and in the "trough," it is not 
likely you will need it while the Whippet will do nicely. (Even a Whippet 
can be used as a glissade rudder, also!) The only times when we are glad 
that we've hauled our axes along are when we are ascending anything steep. 
Some steep can be avoided or at least minimized by good route selection. Do 
this. If you do find yourself in the steep, use the ascension techniques 
you've learned to go straight up with self-belay or traverse by cutting 
switchbacks in the snow with your uphill hand holding the axe plunged deep 
into the snow as an anchor. (The Whippet can not do either one of these 
things). Keep in mind it is the steep where most can be seriously hurt, thus 
where you want an axe (casual hurts happen all day and are often caused by 
haste, distraction, and stupid assumptions).

- use your hiking crampons in the morning when the snow is hard, crusty, or 
slippery. When the surface starts to soften to where your shoe's lugs can 
get a predictable grip, you can consider taking them off. Just beware of 
shade and ice. But use them!

We will be out on the trail again this spring filming snow safety 
instruction videos right on the PCT in SoCal, north of Kennedy Meadows, and 
along the northern half of Washington (for all south-bounders). We covered 
KM north to the Muir Trail Ranch three years ago. We are going to emphasize 
the use of the Whippet and Kahtoola hiking crampons, showing how to get the 
most out of their performance, when to deploy, and what skill techniques 
work best over the dangerous sections of the route for future PCT hopefuls 
and all those who want to backpack 3-season.



Ned Tibbits, Director
Mountain Education
www.mountaineducation.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Gary Wright
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 11:03 AM
To: Pct-L at backcountry.net
Subject: Re: [pct-l] Ice axes?


On Mar 2, 2013, at 12:05 PM, Scott Williams <baidarker at gmail.com> wrote:

> It all depends on the year and the snow.  If it continues to be a low snow
> year than maybe not, but several storms are stacked up and heading into CA
> this next week and they could completely change the picture.  Our group
> used them and crampons and microspikes in 2010 which was a very cold 
> spring
> with little melt off.  In 2012 people hiked on dirt where we had used ice
> axes.

To add to this, the most common sections that *might* require an ice axe 
are:

San Jacinto and Fuller Ridge
High Sierra (Kennedy Meadows to Echo Lake)

Regarding San Jacinto, it is quite common for there to be dangerous sections
*prior* to arriving at the junction to the Devil Slide trail and resupply
in Idlywild. In particular Apache Peak.  If you plan to pick up your ice axe
in Idlywild in order to have it for Fuller Ridge, that may be too late.

Regarding the High Sierra, timing your approach to the high passes so that
you cross the snow between late morning and early afternoon is the best plan
whether you have an ice axe or not.  Early in the morning, the snow will
be hard and slick. Towards mid-afternoon, the snow becomes very soft and
post-holing is likely.

Radar

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